How to Maintain Your Brickwork in Kent: The Complete Seasonal Guide to Inspecting, Caring For and Protecting Brick Walls, Pointing and Masonry

Brickwork is the most permanent thing most Kent homeowners own. The Victorian terrace in Rochester, the Edwardian semi in Chatham, the interwar house in Sittingbourne, the period property on a Tunbridge Wells residential road — all of them were built in brick, and all of them are capable of standing for another century if the brickwork is correctly maintained.

The difficulty is that brickwork maintenance occupies a peculiar position in most homeowners' thinking. It is never urgent — until suddenly it is. The crack that appeared in the rear garden wall, the mortar that crumbled when you pressed it with a finger, the white powdery deposit that appeared on the front elevation after a wet winter — none of these announced themselves as emergencies. They developed gradually, over seasons and years, as the consequence of maintenance that was not done when it should have been.

By the time brickwork becomes an emergency, the repair costs have multiplied. Failed mortar joints that would have been a repointing job at modest cost become a brick replacement job when the water that entered through the joint has spalled the brick faces over three or four winters. A garden wall that needed its coping reset becomes a wall that needs partial rebuilding when water ingress at the top has saturated the interior and freeze-thaw cycling has pushed the upper courses apart.

This guide exists to prevent that multiplication. It is the complete seasonal maintenance programme for Kent residential brickwork — house walls, garden walls, boundary features, chimney stacks, and all masonry elements — written with specific knowledge of Kent's ground conditions, climate, and the specific housing stock that dominates the county. It is informed by fifteen years of brickwork assessment and repair across every part of the county, and by the consistent evidence of what happens when maintenance is prioritised and what happens when it is deferred.

MB Construction Group — Marshall Brickwork & Construction is based in Rochester and delivers brickwork maintenance, repair, and repointing across Kent as core services. The knowledge in this guide comes directly from the hundreds of assessments the team has carried out — reading what brickwork reveals about its condition, its history of maintenance, and what it needs next.

Understanding What Brickwork Is and Why It Needs Maintenance

This is the foundation before anything else, because most homeowners do not fully understand what brickwork actually is — and the misunderstanding leads to maintenance decisions that cause damage.

A brick wall is not a solid monolithic structure. It is an assembly of two distinct materials — brick units and mortar joints — that behave differently under every weather condition and have completely different service lives. Understanding this distinction is what makes brickwork maintenance intelligible.

Brick — specifically the facing bricks that form the external surface of most Kent residential properties — is a fired clay product. The firing process vitrifies the outer surface, creating a dense, weather-resistant face. Good quality Victorian and Edwardian facing bricks, fired at adequate temperatures from suitable clay, have service lives measured in centuries. The brick is not the maintenance-demanding element of the wall.

Mortar is an entirely different material. It is a mixture of binder (cement, lime, or both), aggregate (sand), and water that sets through chemical reaction and hardens to create the joint between bricks. Mortar joints are sacrificial by design — they are intended to be softer than the bricks they bond, so that when the wall experiences thermal movement, ground movement, or moisture cycling, the stress is absorbed and released through the joint rather than through the brick face. Mortar has a realistic service life of twenty to forty years depending on specification, exposure, and whether it was correct for the brick type in the first place.

The critical implication: When mortar reaches the end of its service life and fails, it is supposed to be replaced — a routine maintenance procedure called repointing. When mortar is not replaced and continues to deteriorate, water enters through the joint and reaches the brick body. In winter, that water freezes and expands within the brick's pore structure, forcing the brick face to detach — a process called spalling. Spalled bricks cannot be repaired by pointing alone; they require replacement, at significantly greater cost.

Brickwork maintenance is therefore primarily mortar joint maintenance. Everything else — cleaning, biological growth treatment, structural crack monitoring — is secondary to keeping the joints in a condition that prevents water ingress.

Kent's Climate and What It Does to Brickwork

Kent's specific climate creates brickwork maintenance challenges that differ from most UK regions, and understanding the mechanisms helps prioritise the maintenance schedule correctly.

The freeze-thaw cycle. Kent's coastal-influenced climate means winter temperatures oscillate around freezing more frequently than inland regions. Rather than sustained deep frost, Kent typically experiences repeated dips below and rises above 0°C through December to February — the most damaging possible pattern for mortar joints and for any water that has penetrated brickwork. Each freeze-thaw cycle expands water in the mortar or brick pore structure by approximately 9% as it freezes, creating internal pressure that progressively damages both materials. A joint that is crumbling but not fully open at the end of September can, after forty freeze-thaw cycles through a Kent winter, be open enough to allow significant water penetration by February.

Biological growth. Kent's wet climate and mild temperatures — particularly through the shoulder seasons — create ideal conditions for moss, algae, and lichen growth on north-facing and shaded brick surfaces. Biological growth is not merely cosmetic. Root systems penetrate mortar joints, extracting lime and progressively weakening the joint. Established lichen, which bonds to the brick surface through biochemical adhesion, can be actively destructive to soft brick faces when it contracts and expands through thermal cycling.

London Clay movement. The seasonal expansion and contraction of London Clay beneath most Medway area and Sittingbourne properties creates ground movement that transmits through foundations to the walls above. The cracking patterns that clay movement produces — typically diagonal cracking from corners of openings, or stepped cracking following mortar joints — require different assessment and intervention from cracking caused by thermal movement or physical impact. Recognising which mechanism is responsible for a given crack pattern determines whether repointing is the appropriate response or whether structural investigation is needed first.

Salt crystallisation. Coastal exposure across Swale district properties and parts of the Thanet area introduces salt-laden air that deposits salts within brickwork pore structure. As the salts crystallise, they expand and cause surface disruption — a specific form of weathering most severe on softer, more porous brick. This is distinct from the efflorescence caused by ground salts, though both produce white surface deposits.

The Annual Brickwork Inspection: What to Look for and When

The foundation of any effective brickwork maintenance programme is an annual inspection — a systematic visual and tactile assessment of all masonry elements that identifies developing problems before they become established failures. Spring (March-April) is the optimal inspection window — after the winter season has revealed any damage and before any new growing season biological growth obscures the surface condition.

What to Inspect

House walls — all elevations. The most critical masonry on the property and the most consequential to maintain. Walk systematically around the building and look for: open joints (visible gaps between mortar face and brick edge, or between mortar face and adjacent mortar); crumbling mortar that powders when pressed with a finger tip; cracks in mortar joints (distinguish between the crack that runs through the mortar joint and the crack that runs through the brick itself — the latter is more serious); white efflorescence deposits that indicate water movement through the wall; biological growth on mortar joints and brick faces; and at chimney stack level (binoculars are the safe option), any evidence of mortar deterioration at the flaunching (the mortar collar around the chimney pot) or at the base of the chimney where it exits the roof covering.

Garden walls and boundary features. Garden walls are the most exposed masonry on any property and typically deteriorate faster than house walls because they lack the thermal mass and shelter that a building provides. Inspect: the coping detail at the top of the wall — this is the most critical maintenance point, as a failed or absent coping allows water to saturate the wall body from above, causing progressive deterioration throughout. Check pier capping and gate post tops. Check that the wall is plumb — any lean developing indicates foundation movement that requires investigation before maintenance work. Check the mortar joints throughout.

Steps and external hard masonry features. External steps — particularly the mortar joints between step treads and risers, and the haunching mortar at each step end — are subject to constant physical load on top of weather exposure. Check joint integrity and the condition of any sealant at the step nosing.

Extension and outbuilding walls. Any more recent brickwork should be checked against the main house for movement joints — designed gaps filled with flexible sealant that accommodate differential movement between the new and original structure. Movement joints that have failed — where the sealant has hardened, cracked, or pulled away — allow water ingress at a location that is specifically engineered to allow movement. Replace failed movement joint sealant with a compatible flexible sealant before water ingress at the joint compromises adjacent masonry.

The Scratch Test

This simple tactile test reveals mortar condition more reliably than visual inspection alone. Take a key, a screwdriver tip, or any pointed implement and drag it along the face of the mortar joint. Mortar in good condition resists this scratch firmly — the implement skates across the surface. Mortar that is failing softens or powders under the implement. Mortar that has already failed comes away in fragments. This test is particularly revealing on joints that look superficially intact but have carbonated and lost strength at depth.

Systematically test joints on each elevation — starting with the north and west faces, which receive the most weather, and including any particularly exposed sections such as chimney faces and garden wall runs.

Spring Brickwork Maintenance (March–May)

Spring is the action season — the window where the inspection findings from the post-winter survey translate into maintenance interventions.

Biological Growth Treatment

For any brick surface where moss, algae, or lichen growth is present, biocide treatment precedes any cleaning or repointing. Applying a proprietary masonry biocide — diluted according to the product instructions and applied with a brush or low-pressure sprayer — kills the biological growth before mechanical removal. This sequence is critical: removing living biological growth mechanically, without prior biocide treatment, disperses viable spores across the surface and potentially introduces them into adjacent mortar joints, spreading the problem while giving the appearance of solving it.

Allow the biocide to work for ten to fourteen days. The biological growth will die back visibly during this period. Dead growth is then removed by gentle brushing — a stiff-bristled masonry brush, not a wire brush, which can cause surface damage on softer brick. High-pressure washing is appropriate for cleaning brick surfaces once the biological growth is dead, but with important caveats: pressure should be moderate (below 1,500 PSI at the nozzle), the lance should be held at an angle rather than perpendicular to the surface, and the direction of washing should be along the brick face rather than directly into mortar joints. High-pressure washing directly into mortar joints at close range erodes joint material even when the mortar is in good condition.

Repointing: What It Involves and When It Is Needed

Repointing is the process of removing failed mortar from joints to adequate depth and replacing it with new mortar in the correct specification. It is the most important maintenance procedure available for brick walls, and the one most frequently deferred until damage has progressed beyond the point where repointing alone is sufficient.

When repointing is needed:

The scratch test gives the most reliable field assessment. Additionally: visible gaps between mortar and brick edge that allow a tool to be inserted to any depth; mortar that is recessed more than 5mm below the brick face; visible cracking running through the mortar joint (not hairline surface cracking — open cracking that can be seen clearly from normal viewing distance); and efflorescence deposits appearing progressively in new locations, which indicates active water movement through the joint.

What correct repointing involves:

Old mortar is removed to a minimum depth of 15–20mm — the minimum depth needed to provide adequate mechanical key for the new mortar and to ensure the replacement mortar has sufficient mass to withstand weather exposure. Removal is done using a plugging chisel and hammer for hand raking, or a mortar raking tool for more extensive areas. Under no circumstances should an angle grinder be used adjacent to brick faces — the margin for error is insufficient and brick edge damage is the routine consequence.

After raking, all dust and loose material is removed with a brush and a compressed air blast or vacuum. The joint is then dampened — not soaked — before new mortar is applied. The dampening reduces suction from the brick faces, which would draw water from the new mortar too rapidly and prevent it from curing to full strength.

Mortar specification — the most consequential decision:

For any property built before 1930 — which includes the vast majority of Kent's Victorian, Edwardian, and earlier housing stock in Rochester, Chatham and Gillingham, Canterbury, Maidstone, and across the county — the correct mortar specification is lime-based. The reasons are structural, not merely traditional.

Period bricks were made from local clay at firing temperatures significantly lower than modern machine-made bricks. They are softer, more porous, and more flexible. They were designed to work with lime mortar, which is also soft and flexible — the mortar acts as the sacrificial element, accommodating movement and releasing moisture through the joint rather than through the brick. When a modern Portland cement mortar — which is significantly harder and more rigid than these bricks — is used for repointing, the movement and moisture stress that the mortar joint should absorb is transferred instead into the brick face. The result is progressive spalling: the brick face detaches, exposes the softer interior, and deteriorates rapidly. This is one of the most common forms of brickwork damage Marshall's team sees across Kent's period housing stock, and it is entirely caused by incorrect mortar specification on a previous repointing job.

The correct lime:sand ratio for most Kent period brickwork repointing is typically 1:2.5 to 1:3 (lime putty to clean sharp sand), mixed to a buttery, workable consistency. The colour of the sand is the primary determinant of the finished mortar colour — selecting sand that matches the original joint colour in hue and texture is the craft element of the work. Test the colour on a small, inconspicuous section and allow it to dry before committing to the full area — mortar colour changes significantly between wet and dry.

For post-1930 housing built with harder, denser machine-made bricks, a cement:lime:sand mortar (typically 1:1:6 by volume) is appropriate — the cement provides adequate strength, and the lime provides enough flexibility to avoid the damage caused by pure cement mortars on older brickwork.

Joint profile:

The profile given to the new mortar at the surface — whether it is finished flush with the brick face, slightly recessed, or tooled to a rounded bucket-handle profile — affects both the appearance and the water-shedding performance of the finished joint. A weatherstruck profile (slightly sloped from top brick edge to bottom) sheds water most effectively and is appropriate for exposed external walls. A bucket handle (rounded, concave) is traditional and performs adequately in most residential applications. A recessed profile — the fashionable choice in some contemporary repointing — creates a horizontal ledge at every course that collects water rather than shedding it, and is inappropriate for external walls in Kent's wet climate.

Efflorescence: Treatment and Investigation

White powdery deposits on brick surfaces — efflorescence — are a normal consequence of soluble salts in the brick or mortar being carried to the surface by water movement and crystallising as the water evaporates. In new brickwork, efflorescence through the first two to three years is expected and reduces as the wall dries out after construction. In established walls, new or increasing efflorescence indicates a change in the moisture dynamics — either a new water entry point, a drainage change, or a failed damp-proof course.

Treatment of efflorescence on dry surface: dry brush with a stiff masonry brush — do not wet wash, which can dissolve the salts back into the surface and push them deeper. For persistent efflorescence, a proprietary efflorescence remover (dilute hydrochloric acid in controlled concentration) can be effective on modern hard brick, but should never be used on soft Victorian brick or limestone without testing on an inconspicuous area first.

Investigation of the cause is as important as treatment of the surface symptom. If efflorescence is appearing in new locations, or increasing in established locations, the source of water entry should be identified and addressed before cosmetic treatment makes sense.

Summer Brickwork Maintenance (June–August)

Summer is the season for planned repair work — the optimal window for mortar curing and for work at height that requires dry, mild conditions throughout.

Repointing in Warm Conditions: the Specific Cautions

Summer is the most popular time for repointing work and simultaneously the season that requires the most care in execution. Warm, sunny conditions cause mortar to dry too rapidly — before the chemical curing process that produces adequate strength is complete. Rapid surface drying causes surface shrinkage and cracking of new mortar that can look alarming but is typically superficial; more serious is the reduced strength of mortar that has not cured properly throughout its depth.

The mitigation: dampen the joint before application (as standard). Work in shade where possible — on south-facing walls in direct summer sun, either protect the work area from direct sunlight during application and the first few hours of cure, or schedule work for the morning before the wall heats up. Mist the new mortar with a hand sprayer twice daily for the first three days after application to slow the drying rate and allow proper curing. This is particularly important for lime mortars, which cure more slowly than cement-based mortars and benefit significantly from extended moisture retention during the cure period.

Crack Monitoring

Summer is the optimal season for crack monitoring — establishing whether cracks identified in the spring inspection are moving or stable. The method: mark each end of the crack with a pencil line and date. Photograph. Return after six weeks and compare. Cracks that have not extended are more likely to be historic, stable cracks from previous movement events. Cracks that have extended need professional assessment to identify the mechanism before any repair is attempted.

A stable crack that has not moved for a full year — through the seasonal cycle from wet winter to dry summer and back — can be considered for cosmetic repair repointing. A crack that moves seasonally, extending in summer as the clay shrinks and closing in winter as the clay swells, requires investigation and may require underpinning or structural intervention before superficial repair.

Chimney Maintenance: The Summer Access Window

Chimneys are the most neglected element of residential brickwork maintenance, partly because their height makes inspection difficult and partly because problems develop slowly and invisibly until they become expensive. Summer is the practical window for chimney maintenance — conditions for working at height are best, and access over roof coverings is less likely to disturb frost-sensitive roof elements.

The critical maintenance points on a chimney: the flaunching (the mortar collar that surrounds the chimney pot and sheds water away from the pot/stack junction), the pointing joints in the chimney stack masonry (which are exposed on all four faces and deteriorate faster than wall joints), and the lead or mortar flashings at the base of the chimney where it emerges from the roof covering.

Failed flaunching is the most common chimney maintenance issue Marshall encounters. The flaunching is a large volume of mortar applied without reinforcement, exposed to weather on all surfaces, and subject to the differential thermal movement between the ceramic chimney pot and the brick stack. It cracks progressively and eventually opens to allow water to enter the top of the stack — the most direct possible water entry point to the building. Flaunching is re-done by removing the chimney pot and all failed flaunching material, reapplying a correctly profiled mortar collar in the correct specification, and reseating the pot.

Autumn Brickwork Maintenance (September–November)

Autumn is the preparatory season — getting the brickwork ready for the demands of a Kent winter.

Pre-Winter Inspection Focus

The autumn inspection is a targeted check rather than a comprehensive annual assessment. The focus is specifically on the condition of any areas that are known to be vulnerable — sections identified in the spring survey as borderline, repointing work completed during summer that needs its condition checked before winter, and the coping and chimney elements that are the highest-risk water entry points.

Coping condition. This is the autumn inspection priority. The coping — the protective cap at the top of any freestanding or parapet wall — must be in good condition before winter. A coping that has lifted, cracked, or lost its mortar bedding allows water to saturate the wall body from above. Once saturated, a Kent winter produces freeze-thaw damage that can progress quickly through the upper courses of the wall.

Check that coping stones are firmly bedded — tap each one gently with a fist; any hollow sound indicates a void in the bedding mortar beneath. Check the mortar joints between coping stones and any mortar fillet at the wall face edge. Failed coping mortar is the quickest route to garden wall deterioration and is the single most productive autumn maintenance task for boundary walls.

Movement joint sealant condition. Check any movement joints in rendered walls or at extension junctions. Failed sealant before winter allows water to freeze in the joint channel during freeze-thaw events, which accelerates sealant deterioration and can cause cracking in adjacent masonry.

Vegetation Removal

Vegetation growing in mortar joints — moss, small plants, or the most damaging of all, established weed growth — should be removed in autumn before the root systems become further established through winter. The removal technique matters: pulling vegetation out of joints without prior chemical treatment typically removes mortar along with the root system. Apply a path weedkiller to any vegetation in joints two weeks before mechanical removal; the dead root system releases from the mortar more cleanly and causes less collateral damage.

Ivy and climbing plants on brickwork deserve specific mention because they generate strong opinions. Ivy grown on sound brickwork with strong mortar does not damage the wall — the adhesive pads that attach ivy to the surface are surface-contact rather than penetrative. However, ivy grown on brickwork with failing mortar joints can cause significant damage when removed — the root systems enter the open joints and grow, and removal tears mortar out. The time to remove ivy from failing brickwork is after repointing, not before. Attempting to inspect and repoint brickwork through established ivy is not practically achievable.

Winter Brickwork Maintenance (December–February)

Winter is primarily the observation and record-keeping season for brickwork — the time when the conditions that make maintenance work impractical also reveal the most about how well the brickwork is performing.

What Winter Reveals

Damp patches appearing on internal walls adjacent to external brickwork — particularly after sustained rainfall — are the clearest evidence that mortar joints are failing to exclude water. Photograph the location and note the weather conditions that preceded the appearance. This evidence is valuable for the spring assessment: it identifies the specific area of the wall where water ingress is occurring, often more precisely than external inspection can.

New efflorescence appearing in winter or spring — particularly in locations not previously affected — similarly points to changed water dynamics that need investigation at the spring assessment.

Cracking that appears or extends through a winter dry spell (unusual but occurs in very cold, dry winter periods) may indicate thermal movement in the mortar rather than ground movement.

Winter Repointing: What to Know

Repointing cannot be carried out in freezing conditions — mortar that freezes before it has cured fails catastrophically. Any repointing work during October to March must be scheduled in windows where temperatures are confirmed above 5°C throughout the curing period (typically five to seven days minimum), and where frost is not forecast. Lime mortars require higher minimum temperatures than cement-based mortars and need longer frost-free periods to cure adequately.

In practice, Marshall schedules repointing work across Kent from March through October for routine domestic work, accepting that some urgent situations require winter working with appropriate precautions — temporary heating, protective sheeting, and extended programme allowances.

Identifying Brickwork Problems That Require Professional Assessment

This guide covers maintenance that a well-informed homeowner can manage and monitor. There are specific conditions where professional assessment is the correct response — where continuing with DIY maintenance without expert diagnosis risks making the situation worse.

Structural Cracking Patterns

Cracking that is diagonal, stepped through mortar joints, or that appears consistently at corners of openings (windows and doors) may indicate foundation movement or structural issues rather than simple mortar deterioration. The specific pattern and location of cracking is diagnostic: Marshall's brickwork assessment expertise includes reading these patterns and identifying whether repointing is appropriate or whether the underlying cause needs investigation first. New builds and home extensions on Kent clay sites are particularly prone to settlement cracking in the first few years that needs professional diagnosis.

Progressive Spalling

Brick faces that are actively detaching — not historic spalling that is stable but progressive spalling where new brick faces are breaking away — indicate ongoing moisture penetration and freeze-thaw damage that needs to be stopped at source before the affected bricks are replaced. Identifying and sealing the water entry point is the first intervention; brick replacement follows once the moisture problem is controlled.

Bulging or Leaning Walls

Any wall section that has developed a visible lean, bulge, or bow requires structural assessment before any maintenance work. The cause may be foundation movement, loss of wall tie integrity in cavity wall construction, or water-related expansion of masonry within the wall section. Each requires a different structural response. Repointing a wall that is structurally unstable risks disturbing it further.

Persistent Damp After Repointing

Damp that persists on internal walls after external repointing has been completed may indicate that the water entry is through a different pathway than the mortar joints — rising damp through a failed or absent damp-proof course, penetrating damp through a wall tie cavity, or condensation from insufficient insulation. These require diagnostic investigation rather than additional repointing.

Brickwork Maintenance Across Kent's Housing Stock

Kent's varied housing character creates brickwork maintenance situations that differ meaningfully across the county.

Rochester and Medway — the largest concentration of Victorian and Edwardian period brickwork in the county. The combination of soft handmade bricks, original lime mortars, and the specific ground movement patterns of London Clay creates the most demanding maintenance environment. Lime mortar repointing expertise is most intensively required here, and the consequences of incorrect mortar specification are most rapidly visible.

Chatham and Gillingham — dense residential brickwork of similar age and character to Rochester, with the added factor of the hillside positions of many Chatham properties creating enhanced moisture exposure on west and south-west facing walls. The high-density terraced streets in central Chatham present access challenges for repointing work that require scaffolding planning.

Sittingbourne and Swale — similar clay ground conditions with the additional salt exposure of the coastal-adjacent areas. The harder, darker bricks characteristic of some Sittingbourne properties are more resistant to spalling than softer Victorian types but can still be damaged by incorrect hard cement mortar over softer joint sections.

Tonbridge, Tunbridge Wells and Sevenoaks — the premium residential character of west Kent creates higher expectations for finish quality in repointing work. Colour matching mortar to existing pointing is more visible and more important on the prominent front elevations of Sevenoaks and Tunbridge Wells period properties. The local brick character — the warmer reds and multi-coloured stocks of the Weald brick tradition — requires specific mortar colour selection.

Canterbury and east Kent — the conservation area sensitivity of Canterbury and surrounding historic towns makes mortar specification a planning consideration as well as a maintenance one. Certain listed buildings require consent for repointing work; some conservation areas specify acceptable mortar types within their design guidance. Addressing these requirements before beginning work, rather than discovering them mid-project, is part of Marshall's standard consultation approach.

The Relationship Between Brickwork Maintenance and Other Outdoor Works

Brickwork maintenance does not happen in isolation. The condition of surrounding elements affects brickwork performance, and brickwork condition affects the performance of adjacent outdoor construction.

Drainage and brickwork. Failed driveway drainage that directs water against house walls contributes to the damp conditions that biological growth requires and accelerates mortar deterioration at low level. The relationship between driveway and patio drainage and brickwork moisture is direct and consequential.

Patio condition and wall moisture. A patio installed without correct drainage falls that allows water to pool against the house wall creates persistent damp conditions at the base of the external brickwork. This is one of the most common sources of low-level mortar deterioration in Kent residential properties.

Fencing and wall junctions. Where garden fencing is fixed to brick garden walls — a common arrangement at rear boundaries — the fixing method matters for the wall's long-term condition. Poorly fixed posts or rails that flex in wind create point loads on the wall at the fixing location, causing progressive mortar failure around the fixing.

Garden wall copings and landscaping. Soil or mulch levels that are raised against the base of garden walls through planting bed landscaping cover the lower courses of brickwork and promote persistent damp. The base of any garden wall should be clear of soil contact to allow the base courses to breathe and dry between rain events.

Getting Professional Brickwork Maintenance and Assessment Across Kent

Whether you need a professional assessment of brickwork condition, expert repointing to the correct mortar specification, brick repair of spalled or damaged units, or the complete garden wall restoration that maintenance alone cannot achieve, Marshall Brickwork & Construction provides expert brickwork services across the full Kent coverage area.

Explore the detailed guides for specific brickwork services: complete repointing guide, brick repair guide, garden walls guide, commercial brickwork guide, and new builds structural brickwork guide.

Browse completed brickwork projects across Kent. Read about the full construction services range.

Phone: 07724 730872 Email: info@mbconstruction.group Contact: mbconstruction.group/contact/

The brickwork that has kept Kent's homes standing for a century and a half will keep them standing for another century if it receives the maintenance it deserves. This guide gives you the knowledge to deliver that maintenance — and to know when professional expertise is the right next step.

Marshall Brickwork & Construction Ltd | MB Construction Group | 14 Poplar Road, Rochester, ME2 2NR | 07724 730872 | mbconstruction.group